We started in the afternoon from San Juan, Puerto Rico, and had a bit of a "bumpy" ride with waves from the side and behind, causing us to roll quite a bit.
After 2 nights and with reduced sailing on the last night to reach Samana, Dominican Republic, in daylight, we got to see crazy humpback whales on Wednesday morning šš. They come to Samana Bay for mating in February/March every year.
We had booked a berth in the marina, and it was nice to lie still the first night š.
On the very first day we met a couple, Kevin and Jeannine from Canada š. We had lunch together and agreed to walk together to the city of Samana the next day.
It was a nice walking path along the coast, through the forest and with cattle, some horses and a couple of mules grazing along the way šš.
In Samana, a nice town, we were able to buy local data SIM cards and also withdraw local currency, pesos.
Our friends, Annett and Michiel, "Chiara" NED, and Lene and SĆøren "Fortuna" DK, arrived at the harbor and we had a sundowner at the marina's beautiful bar by the swimming pool.
We hired a car, but due to some misunderstandings we joined Lene and SĆøren on a day trip. We visited Las Terrenas and El LimĆ³n (a waterfall) where we walked and they rode mules. We swam under the waterfall - cold but refreshing š.
The next day our car was ready and we drove towards the center of the island and up into the mountains. We planned a walk to El Mogete. It is located at 1,560 meters above sea level and the trip is about 4 km each way and a total of 865 meters in height.
We booked into a small "hotel" and strolled around the town, Jarabacoa, the night before. Lots of noise from cars and scooters, "everyone" rode a scooter, young and old. Fun, but a bit "wild west"šš
At 8.30 the next morning we were ready. The trip up was nice, but demanding. It was very steep and we almost climbed some parts. We passed parts of a youth group on the way, some of them struggled and was really out of breath , so we are not completely rotten in the body yet š.
At the top was a small hut,almost a shack, where a man lived. Not much luxury there, but what a view !! š®. We looked out over the town and the valley and also towards Pico Duarte, the Dominican Republic's highest mountain, 3101 m above sea level.
After a lunch break, we started the hike down. It was extremely demanding, and after about 100 meters down, Kai found out that he must have left his mobile at the top š±. It was just a matter of turning around and climbing back up š .
After looking everywhere, with the help of some of the young people who we had chatted with on the way up, he found the mobile - in the backpack!!š¤Ŗ.
Okayā¦ then we started the descent once more.
It took a long time (more than the hike up) and we walked backwards more than half of the way š .
It was simply not fun.
Once down, we were still very satisfied with the hike, approx. 8 km, 5 hours and 865 altitude meters up and 865 DOWN!š
On the way back to the marina, we bought "street food", "Yaniqueques" - a salty fried cornmeal flatbread. Very good šš
We drove through Santo Domingo, the capital, on our way back. It is a large city with over 3 million inhabitants.
It was good to get back to the boat and relax. Quite tired in the legs š.
The next day I, Monica, was very stiff in my thighs š and day two even worse, but it got better eventually. And when we walked to Samana city again, it loosened up the muscles a bit š.
We took a tuktuk back to the marina, a mixed pleasure I (Monica) thought, lots of traffic, bad gas, lots of people and very little protection and security. Fun.
Due to more wind than desired, we stayed a few extra days and rented a car for 2 more days. We took the trip into Santo Domingo, Old Town, and were a bit of tourists š.
Before we got to the old town, but inside the town, we visited the "Monument Cueva Los Tres Ojos", (translated - The Three Eyes). In earlier times, the caves were used by the natives to worship and worship their gods. It is estimated that the sinkholes originated 10,000 years ago when the roof collapsed at the end of the ice age and the water returned to the oceans. Down in the caves there are several small lakes with crystal clear water.
On the way to the old town, we drove past "El Faro A ColĆ³n" (Columbus Lighthouse), a mausoleum monument, a tribute to Christopher Columbus (they don't like him...)
We checked into a small and cheap hotel in the "Zona Colonial" (old town) before strolling around. The hotel, or building, was from the 17th century, but restored in 2008. Rustic and with crooked floors and doors š.
First we had lunch at a cozy restaurant in a narrow pedestrian street, before visiting the "PanteĆ³n de la Patria" - originally a Jesuit church, built in 1714-1746, but now standing as a national symbol and a mausoleum for the Republic's most honorable people.
A beautiful chandelier and a superb copy of Leonardo da Vinci's fresco on the ceiling (unfortunately no picture).
Then we went to the "Museo de la casas Reales" (The Royal House Museum).
Now it had been a lot of culture, so we sat down at a cafe and had a drink while listening to some street musicians. It wasn't all that good, since it was the same lines/tones on repeat, so we moved on š.
We passed the "Basilica Cathedral of Santa Maria la Menor", the oldest cathedral in America, begun in 1504 and completed in 1550. It was the first Catholic cathedral in the "New World".
Almost back at the hotel, we saw a small, cozy cafe in an alley on the corner of a church (there was a wedding there when we passed). "Corner's cafe" was a nice little cafe where a glass of wine was just right after being a tourist for a few hours š .
On the return trip the next day, we shopped as much as we could as we had heard that everything is very expensive (even more expensive than on previous islands) in the Bahamas š±.
After storing everything away and washing another machine with clothes, we relaxed by the pool in the sunset. Marina Puerto Bahia was a very good marina at a good price š.
Sunday morning we prepared the boat, checked out and were visited by customs on board (first time). He did a very superficial check and wished us a good trip š.
The Dominican Republic is a very nice country, with great nature, lots of agriculture and lots of nice people š.
Next destination TheBahamas. There we will be visited by Daniel, Sandra, Ask and Eira. š
We are very much looking forward to that, but before they arrive we will check out possible places to visit.
The trip to DR was 300 Nm. It took longer than expected as we eventually got very little wind and we also used the engine for a few hours š.
A nice sail, nice weather and some beautiful sunrises and sunsets, and Monica's "friend", the moon, was almost full and then it gets quite bright so we can see the sea and waves.
The Bahamas, Part 1
We arrived at Matthew Town, Great Iguana, at night and anchored. The next morning we took the dinghy into the marina and Georg, the harbormaster, was very helpful with check-in. There wasn't much to see and do in Matthew Town, with 1 grocery store, one old lighthouse and two bars/restaurants. We visited them all š - must support local business š.
After 2 nights with waves and rolling, we set course for Long Island.
We had good wind and sailed at good speed for most of the 12 hours, and sailed much faster than first estimated. We therefore passed the planned anchorage and continued towards Clarence Town. You want to reach anchorages and marinas in daylight due to shallows and coral heads. We arrived in Clarence Town at 11am and after a fuel stop in the marina, we wound our way around some reefs to the anchorage. In the marina there was a sign saying "no swimming - "High risk area due to sharks" š®. There were a lot of sharks there and they were into the shallows because they got fishwaste when the fishermen were cleaning their catch.
We rented a car here also and were tourists for a day on this beautiful and very "tidy" island. We drove all the way north and saw another Columbus Monument, Cape Santa Maria (beautiful beach), many churches, a total of 29 in 47 miles (different religions) and after that we swam/snorkeled in "Dean's Blue Hole" (a deep hole in the water). It is one of the deepest in the world, and after a shelf at about 6 metres (20 ft), it suddenly plunges 202 m (663 ft.) into darkness. Kai dived down to the shelf and then swam out over the black hole - got a pulse š®
We met the owner of "Hamilton's Cave", Mr. Leonard Cartwright, and arranged a tour of the caves the next morning. The cave system is the largest in the Bahamas. It is believed that "The Lucayan Indians" lived there in the year 500 and in 1936 many archaeological traces were found there. The cave is named after a small community called Hamilton's and is located roughly in the middle of Long Island, a little south of "Salt Pond". The cave system is over 3 acres in size and you must have a guide to visit them, otherwise you can easily get lost.
We saw four out of five different bat species in the caves, some reacted to light from the flashlight and started flying around š±š®, while others just "hung there" š.
In the afternoon we headed for George Town, Great Exumas. We had a nice night sail and arrived at 10 o'clock the next morning.
Lene and SĆøren were already anchored and they invited us to dinner. We first took a small trip on land, but it's not a big place.
Vi had a very pleasant evening on board with Lene and SĆøren and was served "the world's most expensive meat". 220 US dollars, š®, they hadn't discovered the price until after the trade. But it tasted excellent, though šš
The next day, after moving closer to Stocking Island (on the other side of the strait) we took a hike and also did some "beach art" when we wrote the boat's name with stones down on the beach (along with many many others).
Afterwards, we enjoyed some food and drink at the Chat'n Chill beach bar. There were several rays swimming up to the edge of the beach and we fed them!
We prepared anchor and rope attachments for the strong winds of the evening and night. The anchor sat well and it went perfectly well with 35 knots of wind. Some other boats both "dragged" and danced back and forth.
I (Monica) actually slept very well in the safe belief that we were firmly seated š.
We went for a hike, Sand Dollar Beach trail, before Lene and SĆøren came to dinner at our boat, bacalao, made by Kai and I (Monica) actually baked both loaf and bread that day š, which is not usual. šš¤·āāļø.
The trip continued to Cave Cay. There we barbecued on the beach and the next morning we sailed to Staniel Cay. Big tide difference, so we were decided to go out 1 hour before low tide (have the current with us), but with waves and wind against us it was a "bumpy" ride out into open water. But, it's a lesson learned, so next time we'll go out right at shift and try and have wind and waves with us.
We spent 2 nights in Staniel Cay, where we, among other things, snorkeled into "Thunderball Grotto", a grotto used during the filming of the James Bond film of the same name. In Norwegian "Operation Tordensky", and a short visit to "Pig Beach"...., ok, but very touristy...š¤·āāļø, then we sailed to Warderick Wells Cay.
This is inside the Exuma Land and Sea Park. Here we met Jeannine and Kevin again.
We were on a buoy and the water here was so clear that we wondered if we were running aground. Several times we checked the depth, but it was about 3 m where we were tied to the bouy š¤·.
We stayed here for 3 nights due to a lot of wind (more than desired), and we went both hiking and snorkelled.
Next stop was Norman Cay, still with Jeannine and Kevin. Here there was a marina under construction which will probably be quite fancy when finished. Even now, harbor berth costs $7 per foot, which is NOK 3,500 for a 50-foot boat, extremely expensive š®. But lying at anchor is free šš.
Out in the bay is a plane wreck after Escobar. It was really cool to snorkel there. It is only 2-4 m deep.
We then sailed on to Highborne Cay, a lovely place with wonderfully clear water, it is a private island but ok to visit the marina where there was a small shop and a restaurant with lovely views and good food š.
Kai tried to catch lobster with a spear (Jeannine had got one), but there was none to be seen š.
We then sailed on to Allan's Cay, along the way the autopilot messed up and the water in the front tank is too salty, far too high ppm. On check (after a strange taste), it showed 1150, which is way too high.
What happened?
Because the pressure sensor on the watermaker has broken, we have "listened" to the pressure when we have made water.
This has clearly not been good enough, as we have "forgotten" to check the pre-filter, and now it was completely clogged and the pressure has then been too high for a period and then presumably the membrane has broken š”. No WATERMAKER !!
In addition, the dinghy's engine is misfiring - it doesn't fit very well when we soon have visitors š. And the windlass fuse is dead - where do you get a special 100amp fuse in the Bahamas...?
Ever tried to pull in an anchor chain in a lot of wind š„µ.
Kai worked all day to check both the watermaker and the dinghy motor, and got the dinghy motor working againš.
Kevin and Jeannine brought us 50-ish liters of water and also offered to fill our tank with their portable watermaker š.
The next morning we moored to them and 2 hours later we had a full water tank with 250 liters of drinking wateršš. Kai also ordered a new membrane for the watermaker, from Sint Martin, so we are crossing our fingers š¤ that it arrives in Nassau before we leave there (otherwise it will be there when we get back).
We got into the dinghy to check out the beach with the iguanas, but the engine stopped again š±š”.
While the engine cooled down a bit, Kai started with servicing and "repairing" the windlass wiring harness as it had been running very slowly for a few days.
"Murphy's Law" struckā¦..the windlass stopped working completely and even after several hours of searching and testing he found a corroded connector and subsequent dead 100amp fuse. Nothing more to do here so he tried to fix the dinghy engine again.
But no, "no luck" there either (he actually knows a motor) so 2 days before the visit we have no anchor windlass, (but it can be "easily" winched manually), and no dinghy motor and no watermaker - š.
Kai finally said "I've never worked so hard without getting something done" š¤·š¼āāļø.
We fix pretty much everything š
Important: this is actually sailing - 50% work and 50% unbelievable beauty ā¤ļø
At least I, Monica, got the boat washed inside and the beds changed, so that it is ready for visitors. Yesterday we polished all the metal, sinks, taps, hinges, lamps and instruments inside the boat. I think we need a maid soonš
No other photos than a sunset from here as it was only work all day.
So... can we get it repaired or get a new outboard motor in Nassau, will the membrane for the watermaker come and can we get a new fuse for the winch?
Hope Daniel doesn't read this before he arrives with his familyšš
Monica og Kai Robert
Komentar